Strat-M® positioning for skin permeation studies: A comparative study including EpiSkin® RHE, and human skin.

In the development and optimization of dermatological products, In Vitro Permeation Testing (IVPT) is pivotal for controlled study of skin penetration. To enhance standardization and replicate human skin properties reconstructed human skin and synthetic membranes are explored as alternatives. Strat-M® is a membrane designed to mimic the multi-layered structure of human skin for IVPT. For instance, in Strat-M®, the steady-state fluxes (JSS) of resorcinol in formulations free of permeation enhancers were found to be 41 ± 5 µg/cm2·h for the aqueous solution, 42 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the hydrogel, and 40 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the oil-in-water emulsion. These results were closer to excised human skin (5 ± 3, 9 ± 2, 13 ± 6 µg/cm2·h) and surpassed the performance of EpiSkin® RHE (138 ± 5, 142 ± 6, and 162 ± 11 µg/cm2·h). While mass spectrometry and Raman microscopy demonstrated the qualitative molecular similarity of EpiSkin® RHE to human skin, it was the porous and hydrophobic polymer nature of Strat-M® that more faithfully reproduced the skin's diffusion-limiting barrier. Further validation through similarity factor analysis (∼80-85%) underscored Strat-M®'s significance as a reliable substitute for human skin, offering a promising approach to enhance realism and reproducibility in dermatological product development.

Label-Free Quantification of Nanoencapsulated Piperonyl Esters in Cosmetic Hydrogels Using Raman Spectroscopy.

Raman spectroscopy is a well-established technique for the molecular characterisation of samples and does not require extensive pre-analytical processing for complex cosmetic products. As an illustration of its potential, this study investigates the quantitative performance of Raman spectroscopy coupled with partial least squares regression (PLSR) for the analysis of Alginate nanoencapsulated Piperonyl Esters (ANC-PE) incorporated into a hydrogel. A total of 96 ANC-PE samples covering a 0.4% w/w-8.3% w/w PE concentration range have been prepared and analysed. Despite the complex formulation of the sample, the spectral features of the PE can be detected and used to quantify the concentrations. Using a leave-K-out cross-validation approach, samples were divided into a training set (n = 64) and a test set, samples that were previously unknown to the PLSR model (n = 32). The root mean square error of cross-validation (RMSECV) and prediction (RMSEP) was evaluated to be 0.142% (w/w PE) and 0.148% (w/w PE), respectively. The accuracy of the prediction model was further evaluated by the percent relative error calculated from the predicted concentration compared to the true value, yielding values of 3.58% for the training set and 3.67% for the test set. The outcome of the analysis demonstrated the analytical power of Raman to obtain label-free, non-destructive quantification of the active cosmetic ingredient, presently PE, in complex formulations, holding promise for future analytical quality control (AQC) applications in the cosmetics industry with rapid and consumable-free analysis.

Efficiency of emulsifier-free emulsions in delivering caffeine and α-tocopherol to human skin.

OBJECTIVE: Increasing consumer demand for natural and environmentally friendly products is driving the cosmetic industry to seek greener and safer processes. High-frequency ultrasound technology (HFUT) stabilizes emulsions without adding emulsifying surfactants (ES). In this work, the formulation characteristics of an HFUT-treated emulsion and a Reference emulsion were compared for both caffeine and α-tocopherol. METHODS: A comparison was made between ES-free emulsions and the Reference emulsions based on droplet size, viscosity, pH and rheology behaviour for both active cosmetic ingredients. The permeation of caffeine and the skin retention of α -tocopherol were studied in vitro using Franz diffusion cells on human skin biopsies, considered the gold standard for permeation assays. RESULTS: The formulations developed were stable and showed suitable droplet size distribution. In the case of ES-free emulsions, the average droplet size was inferior to 1.5 µm regardless of the polarity of the active. All formulations presented a shear-thinning pseudoplastic behaviour, an attribute usually desired for cosmetic products. The skin permeation studies showed that in the case of caffeine (model hydrophilic molecule), the ES-free emulsion presented a delivery capacity similar to that of the Reference emulsion. However, for α-tocopherol (highly lipophilic model molecule), differences were observed in the distribution of the active in the stratum corneum with an advantage for the Reference emulsion, probably due to the impact of surfactants on the SC lipids. CONCLUSION: This work demonstrates that HFUT is a reliable tool that is able to prepare stable ES-free emulsions loaded with hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients. Skin permeation studies confirm that the emulsions produced by HFUT promote the delivery of the actives to the human skin. In the case of α-tocopherol, the delivery efficiency was lower than with the Reference emulsion, especially in the SC layers, due to the absence of surfactants. Nevertheless, the ES-free emulsion still represents a good compromise between efficacy and the need for green cosmetics in the market.

OBJECTIF: La demande croissante des consommateurs pour des produits naturels et respectueux de l'environnement encourage l'industrie cosmétique à développer des procédés plus écologiques et plus sûrs. La technologie des ultrasons à haute fréquence (HFUT) permet de stabilizer les émulsions sans ajouter de tensioactifs émulsionnants (ES). Dans ce travail, les caractéristiques d'une émulsion traitée par HFUT et d'une émulsion de référence ont été comparées. La caféine et l'α-tocophérol ont été utilisés comme actifs modèles. MÉTHODES: Les émulsions sans ES et les émulsions de référence on été comparées en termes de taille des gouttelettes, de viscosité, de pH et de comportement rhéologique pour les deux actifs. La perméation de la caféine et la rétention cutanée de l'α-tocophérol ont été étudiées in vitro sur des biopsies de peau humaine, en utilisant des cellules de diffusion de Franz, le 'gold standard' des tests de perméation. RÉSULTATS: Les formulations développées sont stables et présentent une distribution appropriée de la taille des gouttelettes. La taille moyenne des gouttelettes des émulsions sans ES est inférieure à 1.5 µm, quelle que soit la polarité de l'actif. Toutes les formulations présentent un comportement rhéofluidifiant adapté à un usage cosmétique. Les études de perméation cutanée montrent que l'émulsion sans ES contenant de la caféine (molécule modèle hydrophile) présente une capacité de délivrance similaire à celle de l'émulsion de référence. Dans le cas de l'α-tocophérol (molécule modèle lipophile), des différences ont été observées dans la distribution de l'actif dans le stratum corneum (SC) avec un avantage pour l'émulsion de référence, probablement lié à l'interaction entre les tensioactifs et les lipides du SC. CONCLUSION: Ce travail démontre que le traitement par HFUT permet de préparer des émulsions stables sans ES, quelle que soit la polarité des actifs cosmétiques à véhiculer. Les études de perméation cutanée confirment que les émulsions produites par HFUT permettent la diffusion cutanée des actifs dans la peau humaine. Même si dans le cas de l'α-tocophérol la quantité accumulée était plus faible, l'émulsion traitée par HFUT propose un bon compromis entre efficacité et éco-responsabilité.

Quantification of low-content encapsulated active cosmetic ingredients in complex semi-solid formulations by means of attenuated total reflectance-infrared spectroscopy.

Attenuated total reflectance-infrared (ATR-IR) spectroscopy is a robust tool for molecular characterisation of matter. Applied to semi-solid formulations, it enables rapid and reliable data collection without pre-analytical requirements. Based on nano-encapsulated Omegalight®, a skin-lightening active cosmetic ingredient (ACI), incorporated in a hydrogel, it is first demonstrated that, despite the high water content and the chemical complexity of the samples (i.e. number of ingredients), the spectral features of the ACI can be detected and monitored. Secondly, with a total of 105 samples divided into a training set (n = 60) and an unknown set (n = 45) covering a 0.5% w/w-5% w/w concentration range, the study further investigates the quantitative performance of ATR-IR coupled with partial least squares regression (PLSR). Through a step-by-step approach in testing different cross-validation protocols, accuracy (root mean square error of cross-validation (RMSECV)) and linearity between the experimental and predicted concentrations (R2) of ATR-IR are consistently evaluated to be respectively 0.097% (w/w) and 0.995 with a lower LOD = 0.067% (w/w). Subsequently, further evaluation of the accuracy (relative error of the predicted concentration compared with the true value, expressed as %) of the analysis was undertaken with the 45 unknown samples that were defined as unknown and analysed by PLSR. The outcome of the analysis demonstrates the ruggedness and the consistency of the determination performed using the ATR-IR data. With an average relative error of 2.5% w/w and only 5 samples out of 45 blind samples exhibiting a relative error above the 5% threshold, high accuracy quantification of the nano-encapsulated ACI can be unambiguously achieved by means of the label-free and non-destructive technique of ATR-IR spectroscopy. Ultimately, the study demonstrates that the analytical capabilities of ATR-IR hold significant potential for applications in the cosmetics industry, and although the path remains long, the present study is one step further to support validation of the technique, albeit for the specific case of Omegalight®.

ATR-IR coupled to partial least squares regression (PLSR) for monitoring an encapsulated active molecule in complex semi-solid formulations.

Attenuated Total Reflectance-Infrared (ATR-IR) spectroscopy holds great promise for industrial applications as a quality control tool for complex galenic formulations. Although the technique is often promoted for the molecular information it delivers in a label free and cost effective fashion, other advantages can emerge compared to the gold standard analytical tools such as liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry. The present study demonstrates how ATR-IR measurements enable accurate quantitative analysis of an active cosmetic ingredient such as Omegalight® encapsulated in a complex alginate based nano-capsule. The study demonstrates how precise concentrations can be obtained without the requirement for fastidious extraction and separation protocols prior to ATR-IR analysis. However, data mining remains a crucial aspect with particular emphasis on the preprocessing of the data that will be subjected to Partial Least Squares Regression (PLSR) analysis. Therefore, different pre-processing methods have been evaluated to investigate the relationship between corrections applied and PLSR outcomes (i.e. precision, ratio of performance to deviation (RPD) and accuracy of the analysis). Ultimately, it has been found that, against all expectations, some of the preprocessing methods do not necessarily lead to improvements in the end result, while Extended Multiplicative Scattering Correction (EMSC) is the only one which delivers satisfying results, as defined by a Root Mean Square Error (RMSEV) of 0.07% (w/w) and a RPD greater than 30 when performing analysis over the range 0.4-8.2% (w/w). Despite the presence of large amounts of additives such as glycerol and preservatives in the formulation, implementing Leave One Out Cross Validation (LOOCV) further validates the method with a RPD of 18 and relative errors for the predicted concentrations below the 5% (w/w) threshold, hence demonstrating that ATR-IR has analytical capabilities for applications in the cosmetic industry.

Quantitative analysis of curcumin-loaded alginate nanocarriers in hydrogels using Raman and attenuated total reflection infrared spectroscopy.

Core-shell nanocarriers are increasingly being adapted in cosmetic and dermatological fields, aiming to provide an increased penetration of the active pharmaceutical or cosmetic ingredients (API and ACI) through the skin. In the final form, the nanocarriers (NC) are usually prepared in hydrogels, conferring desired viscous properties for topical application. Combined with the high chemical complexity of the encapsulating system itself, involving numerous ingredients to form a stable core and quantifying the NC and/or the encapsulated active without labor-intensive and destructive methods remains challenging. In this respect, the specific molecular fingerprint obtained from vibrational spectroscopy analysis could unambiguously overcome current obstacles in the development of fast and cost-effective quality control tools for NC-based products. The present study demonstrates the feasibility to deliver accurate quantification of the concentrations of curcumin (ACI)-loaded alginate nanocarriers in hydrogel matrices, coupling partial least square regression (PLSR) to infrared (IR) absorption and Raman spectroscopic analyses. With respective root mean square errors of 0.1469 ± 0.0175% w/w and 0.4462 ± 0.0631% w/w, both approaches offer acceptable precision. Further investigation of the PLSR results allowed to highlight the different selectivity of each approach, indicating only IR analysis delivers direct monitoring of the NC through the quantification of the Labrafac®, the main NC ingredient. Raman analyses are rather dominated by the contribution of the ACI which opens numerous perspectives to quantify the active molecules without interferences from the complex core-shell encapsulating systems thus positioning the technique as a powerful analytical tool for industrial screening of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Graphical abstract Quantitative analysis of encapuslated active molecules in hydrogel-based samples by means of infrared and Raman spectroscopy.

Qualitative and Quantitative Study of the Potential of Lipid Nanocapsules of One Hundred Twenty Nanometers for the Topical Administration of Hydrophobic Molecules.

In this study, we evaluated the potential of lipid nanocapsules (LNC) of 120 nm as drug nanocarriers to treat skin diseases. As a model molecule, we encapsulated the fluorescent dye curcumin, which also is an antioxidant. Curcumin-loaded LNC showed interesting antioxidant properties and a low toxicity on human skin cells. The penetration of curcumin in the skin was determined by 2 complementary methods: high performance liquid chromatography was used to measure total curcumin accumulation in the skin, whereas fluorescence confocal spectral imaging of skin sections showed that curcumin preferentially accumulates in the stratum corneum and the viable epidermis. These results confirm that LNC of a size above 100 nm can vectorize hydrophobic compounds to the keratinocytes without transdermal delivery. They also demonstrate the interest of combining 2 analytical methods when studying the skin penetration of nanovectorized molecules.